Saturday, April 24, 2010

#20 Travel and See Ethiopia



On April 1, I set off to Ethiopia for a Journey of a Lifetime! You see, I have traveled before to Europe, the Caribbean and Central America, but this was my first trip to Africa.

My biggest fear about Ethiopia was that I was not going to be able to handle the poverty and illness that I would see there. I was worried that when I saw the “starving children of Ethiopia" that I would cry and cry and be whomped by what I was going to see once I got there. But it’s amazing how when you turn it all over to God, how he can make it ok. Not once did I cry over with what I saw. I felt totally at peace the entire time. I saw Ethiopia through God’s eyes. I was not overwhelmed by Ethiopia. The people are beautiful and gentle and kind, the countryside spectacular. I expected more poverty, more something......but that's not what I saw.......They are a very tidy and organized people and take a lot of pride in their appearance and their country, it is very clean. I didn't mind when the children stare in these small towns for I really was the ONLY white person in many towns (and Michael the only Asian)....they yell....YOU YOU YOU and CHINA,CHINA, CHINA at us or foreigner in Amharic but from the little ones its cute.


I got all my shots, packed all the medications....Although I had EVERYTHING that I thought I needed (or could want)....I felt not quite ready when it came down to going and really could have used a few days more of preparation (I'm a preparer!). The night before I was up until wee hours of the night finishing everything and I barely slept, but I guess it was a good thing as I slept my way to Egypt and then Ethiopia!

I was traveling over to Ethiopia with Team 1 (the first team to go to Langano) and Michael a member of Team 2, a Physician who works in another HIV clinic here in Rochester, and my traveling companion for the vacation part of my trip.


4/3/10
We arrived at something like 3 something AM in Addis Ababa without any problems! The only glitch coming through customs was the I-stat machine that I was carrying (a special machine to test blood--that was worth over $10,000)--but once I took it out and explained it etc, they let us pass. Dan and Kim met us and brought us to SIM Headquarters for our first shower in 2 days (It was GLORIOUS!) and a nap.

We then headed out with Team 1 to Debre Zeit (Mount of Olives) to Babogaya, SIM's Rest and Conference Center, to spend the Easter Holiday weekend as everything shuts down and there is no way any of us can travel anywhere. Along the way, we saw people getting ready for their traditional Easter feast with a HUGE market for cattle, sheep and lamb. Easter is the one time of year that everyone will eat a big meal and the children get spoiled with new clothes etc.

Babogaya is a beautiful place of peace and relaxation where the missionaries used to be able to come and refuel. With a lake, flowers, birds--a paradise, however due to a tragedy it is currently closed except for by special permission. So pray that it will be one day be restored to its original intent. The only NOT so peaceful thing about it was night time when the hyenas outside the compound howled all night long and then the Islamic chanting began. The BEST piece of advice I got before I left on my trip---EAR PLUGS....I had a whole bag of them!

4/4/10: Resurrection Sunday
Happy Easter! We awoke and had a lovely breakfast that we made together then traveled back to Addis Ababa to go to church at IEC (International Evangelical Church). Then we had a traditional Ethiopian Feast at Hotel Ghion. Yummmmmy! After lunch, Andrea (Kim and Dan's Daughter who was ending her visit to Ethiopia) wanted to show us her Boarding school.

4/5/10: Michael and I venture off on our adventure. At 5am, Dan dropped us off on the Selam Bus to Dessie. It is a "tourist" bus from Addis to Dessie where the HIV clinic is that Michael worked before. It was supposed to be 9 hours,but it took 10 but it was actually air conditioned, was like a greyhound, they served us a biscuit and juice for breakfast, stopped for 25 minutes for lunch and took 2 "bush" breaks.....we befriended a couple who are here volunteering who had a guide working for them and their guide has totally helped us set things up for the rest of our trip!!!! a TOTAL BLESSING (as we were winging it a bit---those of you who know me know that was definitely stretching me!).

The scenery was breathtaking. Sometimes we were so high that we were above the clouds, the hills and mountains reminded me of Lord of the Rings. Depending upon where we were, the huts may have been made from straw or from rock. At times you felt like you were back in medieval times.

Once in Dessie, we made it to the HIV clinic things had changed in 3 years and they were functioning really well and the people who have AIDS have access to ARV's. Just that morning they saw 140 patients-OH MY!

I had a sweet interaction with a little boy at the AIDS clinic. It was pouring rain and we were stuck there trying to ride out the rain. He was about 2 years old and he stood there clutching his bag of fruit from the nurse. He looked so sad. I sat there smiling at him and trying to make him smile--HE WOULD NOT. I tried and tried....finally I asked him mom if I could give him gum and she said yes. I gave it to him and he stood there with it, just holding it up in the air. So I went back over and broke it in half and put half in his mouth and half in my mouth and started chewing and he chewed. I blew little bubbles.... I made faces.....Nothing. His mom was laughing. One of the clinic ladies came out and made him put down his fruit and shake my hand and say his name---still no smile. A little while later He went to leave and then I got it........he half smiled and said Ciao! and the little blue gum fell out of his mouth...I was so sad for him, I HAD to give him another and he clutched it in his hand as they ran off into the rain.


4/6/10 This afternoon, we hired a driver and started our Journey toward Lalibella. We started off in a van with 3 Ethiopian men, during a torrential rainstorm and the driver was driving WAY too fast and then they pull out the chat (a stimulant that they chew).....and I start feeling WAY out of my comfort zone. This is one of the only times in Ethiopia where I was feeling so uncomfortable and nervous that I almost started to cry because I felt unsafe. But I just started Praying like a mad woman!!!! The rain stopped, one man got out at the next stop and my BP started to decline....

That evening we made it to Woldia. As usual had to get creative with the mosquito nets (there were never hooks to hang them from). And while hanging mine, I squash a mosquito and blood smears across the wall......WHO'S BLOOD???! So much for DEET!

4/7/10 Today was the first time I had no running water in the morning (but it would NOT be the last!). We visited Michael's friend Seada at the HIV clinic in Woldia before heading to Lalibela.

We arrived in the afternoon and I went to see the Rock Hewn Churches there. Michael had seen them before, and we were low on money so I set out to see them with a guide where we climbed up and down rock and mountain for hours. These churches that are from the 12th century and were carved from the ground up. Each of the churches is still manned by a priest who sits there in the dark bothered by tourist all day long (poor things). My guide, Belay, was very informative and helpful and kept me safe all afternoon.That in of it self was a HUGE leap of faith....I had to go off by myself with some stranger and TRUST that he was going to return me to the hotel. Because of COURSE you know he had to ask me if I wanted an Ethiopian husband and didn't I want babies......I promptly made up a story about how I had a boyfriend that I was madly in love with and nope I did not want children (ANYTHING to dissuade this MAN!).

There were lots of street boys in Lalibella who will tell you a story and try to get you to give you money. We met a young man who did not beg, or tell stories, all he wanted was to shine Michael's shoes. He practiced his English and helped Michael with his Amharic and spent a couple hours with us. We ended up giving him money...not because he asked, but because he was willing to work for it.

NO HOT WATER in hotel.....and it is our most expensive hotel.....

4/8/10 Today we flew to Axum. I started not to feel well, so we had to take part of the afternoon off so I could rest, but praise God it passed. We were able to visit the Stellae field and Queen of Sheba's swimming pool with our guide Ephram.

4/9/10 Ephram drove us out to the Quarry where they made the Stellae, then we saw Queen Sheba's Palace, Ezana's Inscription, and the Tombs on Kaleb and Gebrel Meskel (even though they were not buried there--as they were buried in the monasteries, but the tombs were made for them). After a break for lunch --because everything closes for 2 hours when it is HOTTER THAN HOT here, we went to the Church of St. Mary Zion where the Ark of the Covenant is said to be kept. It was neat to be there and I think that it felt like a holy place to me. I could go into the new church, but not the old one--no women allowed--but Michael could. We went to one shop and the market, since this is a touristy place I think they mark the prices up a bit.

It was a great week seeing the historical sights and talking with the people. We tended to eat the same food every day.....because that is all the restaurants have available in these rural places, it is very limited. You ask for something off the menu, but nothing is available. So, we have omelets for breakfast, spaghetti for lunch, Injera with Shiro Feses (almost like a refried bean but runny) for dinner.. but I liked it so no worries.

4/10/10: I developed a rash the night before and it is really bothersome and not going away. Our excursion is over and we have to fly back to Addis Ababa, but of course our flight is delayed and we have no way of getting ahold of Dan who is already at the airport waiting....poor Dan!

Everyone is here!!! Team 1 and Team 2....the whole gang! So we shopped until we dropped then had a lovely dinner and celebrated Gary's Birthday (a day early) before Team 1 flew home.

4/11/10-4/16/10 Time in Langano
This week was mostly about serving, see the Mission's trip blog....but I thought I would write about some of the other moments of the week.

Our home away from home was a beautiful cabin by the lake called the "beach house". It had solar electricity that worked at night (well sometimes) and solar powered water that worked....well 3 of the 5 nights that we were there (and I don't think ever in the morning)...and the problem with that is that our toilets were regular flushing toilets! Team 1 did not have these issues......hmmmm???

The cooks, amazing....Fresh roasted buna at every meal.....home made bread that is to die for.. I ate so well in Ethiopia, I think that if I did not walk so much I would have GAINED weight!

I was out of clothes, and we had no water....I had some rain water, so Terry and I shared it. She rinsed her hair and I washed my clothes , yes in her dirty water (Would you do this normally Susan??--NO! STRETCH!).....then hung my clothes out to dry, and what does it do??? RAIN! So I pull the clothes line inside.....

Our last night we went out on Lake Langano to go "hippo hunting" or should I say spotting. The boat was stuck in the water so we had to get into the water to push it. Don't worry! Langano is safe to swim in ---no Shisto! It was a beautiful night, but my illness had progressed to a point that I was looking (and feeling) like poop!....

Packing up to go home was a hoot.....no electricity....no water. Have you ever tried to put up a clothes line in the rain when it is dark with a headlamp to find out that is a foot to short? when its the exact same same line you took down the day before? Oh and did I mention it's 5:45am!

4/16/10 We headed back to Addis Ababa for our tours at the different hospitals, then headed back to Debre Zeit so that Team 2 could experience the R&R. We tried a new restaurant while there and I tried Asa Lublub.....which I think was a mistake. It was a fish dish which I believe caused me to get sick JUST as I was flying home!

4/17/10 We headed back to Addis Ababa through terrible traffic and then spent the day shopping. Most importantly we went to Mokkaar and I got 2 kilos of Coffee!.....packing...then dinner at Yod where they have dancing and traditional food. Unfortunately my tummy could not really handle Ethiopian food (which I really like)...and I was too exhausted to enjoy the evening. I crawled into bed at 11:45 to sleep for a little over an hour before we had to get up and go to the airport.

4/18/10: The eternal Sunday.......I pretty much slept anywhere and everywhere I could. On a bench, in a chair. Through meals.....that is how I made it home, I slept!

Overall I had wonderful experience. I commented in my other blog about being sick and pressing on. The traveling part went very smoothly. My preparation paid off. The only thing I "forgot" to pack was my slips......really, my skirts were not see-through, so who cared? not me! ......When someone needed xyz....."Susan had it".....that always makes me feel good. I like being the prepared one, I like taking care of people. Everyone was very kind to us. I forgot to say that I dressed very conservatively while Michael and I traveled as Ethiopia is an Orthodox and Muslim country. I always wore a skirt and I wore a bandanna as a head covering. Perhaps that helped, I'm not sure, but men treated me with respect. With that one exception, I never felt unsafe (and I even walked down the street once by myself). I felt at home there, I felt at peace there, I felt calm there.

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